* These are a guide only as the seasons and weather conditions will affect your lawn
Site Preparation
Rotary hoe or spade to a depth of 100 mm approximately
If laying new turf over existing grass, spray existing grass with glyphosate herbicide 7-10 days before preparing the soil to kill old grass and weeds
If soil is poor cover with 50mm -100mm of good topsoil/turf underlay
Rake soil smooth and level, keeping 30-50mm approximately below paths and driveways
Remove clods and rocks
Use a Pre-lawn starter containing water holding crystals eg. Sir Launcher
Ensure soil is sloped to maintain correct drainage away from buildings
Turf Laying
Very lightly water the ground just before laying the turf, especially if ground is dusty and dry
Lay your turf immediately after delivery then water. If you have a large area to lay, water as you go
Begin laying along the longest straight line
On slopes, lay the turf across the slope
Butt edges snugly together and stagger the ends in a brick-like fashion
Avoid indentations by not kneeling or repeated walking on turf while laying or soon after watering
Lightly top dress, especially along the joins in hot weather to help maintain the moisture on the newly laid turf.
Roll turf to improve turf/soil contact and to provide a professional finish
Avoid excessive traffic or use in the first 4 weeks, to help your lawn establish
Watering
Please check with your local council or water authority for any water restrictions
New lawn turf should be given a good soaking immediately after laying. Water daily for the first 2 weeks, then every 2-4 days for a further 2 weeks. Weekly for a further 2 weeks.
Never let your lawn dry out in the first 2 weeks after laying
Early morning is the best time for watering, avoiding evaporation
Do not water in the evening during humid weather as this can promote fungal problems in all grasses
Infrequent deep watering is preferable to frequent light watering (except for newly laid turf) as it promotes a deep root structure that can utilize the moisture reserves in the soil.
Fertilising
New lawn turf should be given a Pre-lawn starter preferably containing water holding crystals. (see also Site Preparation/Pricing section)
Feed the lawn with a slow release organic fertilizer during the growing season every 6-8 weeks
Early autumn fertilizing is important to keep your lawn healthy through the cooler winter season and help it retain it's best colour
A little bit often is better than a lot at once. Over fertilizing is expensive and can cause burning, fungus diseases or unnecessary mowing.
Spread fertiliser evenly, preferably using a fertiliser spreader. Follow up with a good, deep watering.
Top dressing is only necessary to correct any unevenness in the lawn. It is better to de-thatch the lawn in spring followed by fertilizing and watering to promote new leaf growth. Ask Earls Turf for the Sir Walter specially blended fertilisers
Mowing
Newly established lawns may be mown in 3 or 4 weeks, only if turf can not be lifted from the soil
Aim to cut no more than 1/3 of the length of the grass in each cut
Clippings may be left on lawn if following the 1/3 length rule (good nitrogen) otherwise remove
Do not cut grass too short, this can cause your lawn to dry out or burn-off
When it is wet try to avoid mowing your lawn as this can result in an uneven cut
Avoid mowing your lawn when it is very hot.
Mow in different directions as this prevents the grass curving in the same way after a number of cuts.
Remove all clippings after mowing
Keep your lawnmower blades sharp and well maintained
Turf Laying 
Watering 
Fertilising
Mowing
